Maravu and Lomaloma

Little Bay, Vanua Balavu, Lau, Fiji

By: Kerry

Fiji 2015-0053To stay in Little Bay, the Cruising Guide said we needed to do sevusevu at Maravu village, a little further along the coast. We dinghied around the corner to a lovely beach fronting a copra plantation, and walked 30 minutes through scrubby bush along the coast, through plantations of bananas and cassava to Maravu.

The village is the home of former Fijian Prime Minister, Laisenia Qarase, who was ousted by Commodore Bainimarama in the 2006 coup (and was subsequently convicted of corruption).

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The Lau, at Last.

Little Bay, Vanua Balavu, Lau Group, Fiji

By: Kerry

Fiji 2015-9971Twenty-three years ago, I sailed into the Lau Group on another boat, when this remote Fiji island group was officially ‘off-limits’ to cruisers. We were the first foreign yachties to visit in years (we had special permission) and my favourite memory is of having a bunch of the local kids on board for a ‘cool’ drink.

Most of them had never seen a white face before and none of them had experienced anything colder than ‘tropical’. I watched one little guy sneak the ice out of his glass and hide it in his hot little hand to keep for later… Continue reading

Beyond Here Thar Be No Dragons

Vanua Balavu, Lau Group, Fiji

By: Kerry

Fiji 2015-9745In the middle of the night on the shortest day of the year we entered into the western hemisphere and finally, literally, sailed off the edge of the chart.

It was as black as the inside of a cow and almost as wet.

We’d been waiting for a break in the prevailing southeast trade winds to make a dash east to the Lau Group of islands, the farthest east of the islands of Fiji.

Finally, we had a window – really only a louvre – and we sailed out of Savusavu at sunset, with the wind backing to a northerly and then dying altogether.

Around midnight, in pouring rain, we crossed 180 degrees longitude – the ‘actual’ dateline (though the practical dateline does a dog-leg here to embrace Tonga and Fiji in the same day-zone as Australia/NZ).

Our Navionics electronic chart stopped right there: to plot a further course, we had to scroll right around the world and pick up on the other side of the invisible 180 degree line.

Reassuringly, despite our sailing off the edge of the chart, there was no sign of dragons…

We motored almost all of the 108 nautical miles to Vanua Balavu, in the north of the Lau Group, as there wasn’t enough wind to sail. At dawn, we converged on the pass, along with four other boats that had sailed from various points, and by late morning we’d dropped anchor off the village of Daliconi.

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