EOFY

Bay of Islands, Vanua Balavu, Fiji

Fiji 2015-00352Accessing the internet is a perennial challenge for us – it’s infuriating how reliant we are on it, never more so than when we’re trying to do banking and sort finances. Our time in Vanua Balavu coincided with the end of the Australian Financial Year and we had a bunch of tax and superannuation stuff we needed to sort.

There was no signal in the Bay of Islands, so we had to dinghy around the corner, a couple of miles into 20 knot headwinds, clamber around a rocky headland and up a tree, insert the dongle…

After several frustrated attempts, we ended up phoning my sister, Sandra in Australia, who came to the rescue – again! Best. Sister. Ever.

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The Lau, at Last.

Little Bay, Vanua Balavu, Lau Group, Fiji

By: Kerry

Fiji 2015-9971Twenty-three years ago, I sailed into the Lau Group on another boat, when this remote Fiji island group was officially ‘off-limits’ to cruisers. We were the first foreign yachties to visit in years (we had special permission) and my favourite memory is of having a bunch of the local kids on board for a ‘cool’ drink.

Most of them had never seen a white face before and none of them had experienced anything colder than ‘tropical’. I watched one little guy sneak the ice out of his glass and hide it in his hot little hand to keep for later… Continue reading

Beyond Here Thar Be No Dragons

Vanua Balavu, Lau Group, Fiji

By: Kerry

Fiji 2015-9745In the middle of the night on the shortest day of the year we entered into the western hemisphere and finally, literally, sailed off the edge of the chart.

It was as black as the inside of a cow and almost as wet.

We’d been waiting for a break in the prevailing southeast trade winds to make a dash east to the Lau Group of islands, the farthest east of the islands of Fiji.

Finally, we had a window – really only a louvre – and we sailed out of Savusavu at sunset, with the wind backing to a northerly and then dying altogether.

Around midnight, in pouring rain, we crossed 180 degrees longitude – the ‘actual’ dateline (though the practical dateline does a dog-leg here to embrace Tonga and Fiji in the same day-zone as Australia/NZ).

Our Navionics electronic chart stopped right there: to plot a further course, we had to scroll right around the world and pick up on the other side of the invisible 180 degree line.

Reassuringly, despite our sailing off the edge of the chart, there was no sign of dragons…

We motored almost all of the 108 nautical miles to Vanua Balavu, in the north of the Lau Group, as there wasn’t enough wind to sail. At dawn, we converged on the pass, along with four other boats that had sailed from various points, and by late morning we’d dropped anchor off the village of Daliconi.

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

 

Bula from Savusavu, Fiji!

Savusavu, Fiji

By: Kerry (posted a bit later…)

KL Birthday-2010Yep, we’re still here… Thought we’d have gone by now but a few things have kept us. Mostly me: I flew back to Sydney for the joint 50th birthday party for my sister, Sandra and brother-in-law, Dave. And a rip snorter it was! A really brief catch up with friends, and the usual boring stuff of dealing with tax bla bla.

Meanwhile, Damian stayed on the boat, trying to sort out a new set of house batteries (which decided to die the minute we arrived here) and generally manning the ship.

I flew back to Savusavu the day before my birthday. And on my birthday, Damian arranged for us to do a tour of the JS Hunter Pearl Farm here – “the rarest pearls in the world”. Officially ‘black’ pearls, but they come in all sorts of lustrous colours – the rarest being gold. I chose a gorgeous pendant with a pearl the colour of the sea – a deep bluish green. Love it. Totally spoiled.

And then we had friends over for a BBQ on board in the evening. Perfect.

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

Safe n Sound in Savusavu

Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji

By: Kerry

 

Sailing into the dawn

Sailing into the dawn

At last! An ‘easy’ passage from New Zealand! We left Auckland as planned on Friday 8th – the rain stopped chucking it down about an hour before we cast off – and headed north. Starting from Auckland rather than Marsden Cove added 60-odd miles to the trip, making it a 1260 nautical mile voyage, following the rhumb line – which we just about did.

We saw no more than 20 knots of breeze the whole way, and barely a white cap or any kind of swell. A lot of the time we were motoring as there wasn’t enough wind (MUCH the preferred option to too much!) but we did have some lovely sailing here and there (including finally flying our spinnaker for the first time ever), and some really charmed conditions.

One day, it was so calm we stopped the boat and Verdo and I jumped in for a swim, mid-ocean – felt fabulous! Only one fish en route – but we might have done better if we’d had the lines out more often…

One night was particularly stunning – not a breath of wind and a zillion stars reflected in the inky surface of the sea. As the boat cut through the water it sent out ripples of phosphorescence and we left a glowing wake behind us. Every now and then some mysterious sea creature would flee from us, trailing a rapid silver zig zag. Then a red half moon rose like a chalice out of the sea, casting red slivers of reflection across the water all the way to the boat: the proverbial stairway to heaven!

A very special night.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Lemon crossing without an ‘incident’! On Sunday morning (two days out) we were motoring with no sails up and I noticed a chafe mark on the main halyard. To cut a long story short, Verdo went up the mast and confirmed that the halyard had chafed most of the way through, where it runs across the new mast track stopper block installed by Bart the mast builder after our trip back from Fiji last year, when we sheered it off the mast.

Those of you familiar with the mast saga will understand our despair… Just as we thought we were finally finished, we are back to the same situation we were in when we arrived here last year.

Only this time, we can’t use the mainsail at all….

On the upside, we were doing 10 and 11 knots with just our gennaker up on the way here – so who needs a mainsail anyway?

We arrived in the early hours of Saturday morning, having slowed the boat down the night before so as to arrive in daylight. It’s nice to be back.

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

Headed for the Tropics

Fairway Bay, Auckland, NZ

We arrived back on Sel Citron in Auckland a week ago, thinking we’d have a couple of weeks at least to get organised and then head to Fiji. But Bruce, our weather guru, identified a weather window for us to leave tomorrow (Friday) – and it doesn’t look like there’s another one in the next couple of weeks. Even then, it might be more of a louvre, than a window!  So, not wanting to have (yet) another crap crossing, we’ve scrambled to get ourselves organised and ready to leave tomorrow.

Verdo, who crewed for us on the trip back from Fiji last year, is going to do the trip up with us. We hope to be there in about a week, and plans for the season are to explore the eastern side of Fiji, including the Lau Group. We’ll be in Fiji until the end of November. Visitors welcome!

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

Setting a New Record for Jet Travel?

Fairway Bay, New Zealand

By: Kerry

Fantazia Caribbean-9591Eighty-eight hours, boat to boat. Not counting our luggage.

We caught the ferry from Tortola to St Thomas on Saturday and overnighted there in order to catch our 08.00 American Airlines flight next morning. We were up at 5.15, the flight left on time and we then cooled our heels in Miami airport for six hours, waiting for our connection (also AA) to Dallas Fort Worth and on to Sydney.

The board said the flight was leaving on time, so we made our way to the gate, where we sat and waited…

The flight captain gave intermittent apologies and updates: our plane was sitting at the gate (it had arrived late, due to mechanical problems out of Boston) but the crew had been delayed out of somewhere else due to weather and diverted to another airport. The airline could call on a standby crew, but they could only find two crew, and they needed four, so we’d have to wait for the other crew to arrive from the other airport.

Further delays…

We eventually boarded two hours late. Presently, the captain came on the PA and announced that the air conditioning on the port side wasn’t working and we’d have to wait for a mechanic.

The mechanic arrived, but couldn’t fix the problem, so had to ‘placard the a/c as non-operational’, which involved, (explained the captain), lengthy paperwork.

Some time later, the captain came on again. “The paper work is complete, but now there is no-one around to move our bridge so we can’t push back. We’ve called several times, but no-one has answered.”

Twenty minutes or so later, we took off, but by then we were going to miss our connection in Dallas.

En route, the captain informed us that there was bad weather in Dallas, and the air traffic controllers were going to “bring us in low from a long way out and it’s going to get a bit rough”. We were put into a holding pattern for a time, and then we descended through thick cloud, through stomach-lurching air pockets with lightning flashing around the wing tips.

Passengers were getting anxious, as was the stewardess who came on the PA in a stutter of nerves, saying, “I’d just like to remind you there are air sick bags in the seat pocket in front of you, if any of you would like to make a donation. And if you have small kids, please make sure you’re holding onto them really tight.”

So very reassuring!

The plane looped and banked, while spectacular forks of lightning zapped across the sky. I thought (and maybe the captain did, too), that we were going to abort the landing, but we eventually touched down, and everyone clapped.

Then… the captain – by now sounding incredibly weary – announced that there was no-one around to operate the bridge, so we’d have to wait to disembark. And a little while later: “Due to the lightning, no-one can operate the ramps, so we can’t unload the luggage. I don’t know how long this storm will last, but no-one is going to get their bags tonight.”

To cut a long story short, we queued for vouchers and for a shuttle and made it to a hotel at 2.30am and collapsed into bed, but without our luggage.

With 24 hours to kill, next morning we asked the concierge for suggestions of what to see and do in Dallas. She thought for a minute and said, “Um, you could go to the mall?”

Only in America!

And to cut another long story short, we boarded our Qantas flight that night, flew to Sydney and then on to Auckland (feeling very strange to not be getting off in SYD), where we discovered – not really surprisingly – that our bags had not arrived with us.

We caught the bus into town and the ferry to Gulf Harbour and walked the last couple of kilometres (quite thankful not to have our big bags!) to Sel Citron, nestled in Fairway Bay.

It sure was nice to be home.

Eighty-eight hours.

OK, so I know it’s a ‘First World problem’, but it was a helluva trip!

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

PS: Our bags eventually turned up two days later.

The End of the (Caribbean) Road

St Thomas, US Virgin Islands

By: Kerry

Flamenco Beach, Culebra, Spanish Virgin Islands

Flamenco Beach, Culebra, Spanish Virgin Islands

Our original agenda had us sailing Fantazia all the way to Antigua, but we need to get back to NZ to turn Sel Citron around and point her towards Fiji before winter hits.

Delays out of Florida and a few longer-than-anticipated sailing legs mean we aren’t going to make it all the way.

From Marina del Rey on the east coast of Puerto Rico, we jumped off to the island of Culebra – in the ‘Spanish Virgin Islands’ – and then on to St Thomas in the US Virgins and finally to Virgin Gorda and Tortola in the British Virgin Islands.

In all, we sailed 1500 nautical miles from Florida to Tortola – a sizeable chunk of it into strong headwinds.

It’s been a really good trip on lots of levels: we’ve seen places we’d probably never have seen otherwise and shared good times with Mick and Garth. We’ve learned a thing or two from John, who’s got a few sea miles more than us under his belt – and who’s kept us amused with yarns about his days on the road with rock stars. And Christine’s stories of Parisian photo exhibitions and village life in the Loire have us wanting to move to France!

Sue and Alan, old friends of Christine and John, joined us in St Thomas, and we had a few fun, chilled out days in Cane Garden Bay and Virgin Gorda, before catching the ferry from Road Town back to St Thomas for the long journey home…

Iguana, St Thomas

Iguana, St Thomas

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A Tale of Two Cities

Marina del Rey, Puerto Rico

By: Kerry

Fantazia Caribbean-9244Ponce is known as ‘The Pearl of The South’ in Puerto Rico. Its centre is crammed with grand and opulent public buildings in its own, unique ‘Ponce Creole’ architectural style, which is a tropical amalgam of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau, with a little Rococco flourish here and there.

On the main square, the cathedral is painted in mauve with white trim and fronted by a fountain attended by stone lions that apparently came from France. Next door is the Parque de Bombas – painted in red and black horizontal stripes – that houses the museum of Ponce, the tourist office, and a vintage fire truck in its foyer.

It’s charming and quirky and clean. And disturbingly empty of people.

Though apparently reluctant to admit it, Ponce has been in decline for around a century: since the US started manufacturing sugar from beet rather than cane, undermining the mainstay of the Ponce economy. Later, political decisions saw development focused on the north coast of Puerto Rico and the south was overlooked. And then the GFC hit. Ponce’s port – though looking almost new – lies dormant. Probably a billion dollars worth of cranes and equipment, utterly idle.

It’s eery and sad.

By contrast, Damian and I spent a day sightseeing in San Juan.

Old San Juan is crowded on cobblestone streets between massive fortress walls on a finger of land with El Morro – a fort/castle – at its tip.

Like Ponce, San Juan’s architecture is flamboyant and grand, painted in wildly vivid colours, one building brighter than the next. But unlike Ponce, San Juan appears to be thriving: it’s a hub for cruise ships, and throngs of white-socked Americans filled the quay-side restaurants and kept the many tourist shops, cafes and galleries busy.

Few of the cruise ship crowd ventured beyond a block or two from the waterfront. Deeper into the Old Town, restaurants were humming with Spanish-speaking locals. People walked briskly, the traffic jams consisted of BMWs and Jeep SUVs and everyone seemed busy.

The place was buzzing.

We had lunch at Barrachina, the restaurant that claims to be where the pina colada was invented. Of course, we had to try one… or two…

And then we spent the afternoon strolling the back streets, taking photos – probably more than I’ve taken in the whole trip so far!

~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~

Mutton Dressed as Lamb and Pig on a Spit

Ponce, Puerto Rico

By: Kerry

Fantazia Caribbean-9126“Fried Pork Chops” feature on many a menu in Puerto Rico, but on Sunday in Guavate – in the mountains an hour or so from Ponce – Pig on a Spit, or Lecheron, is the order of the day.

Lecheron restaurants line either side of the narrow, winding street, their windows displaying golden-crusted, impaled porkers turning slowly over gas flames. In between the restaurants, stalls sell pina coladas and icecream, and tourist tat ranging from San Juan snow domes to blow up smurfs.

Extended families come from as far away as San Juan to make a day of it, enjoy the carnival atmosphere and generally eat, drink and be merry. The street chokes with cars and motor bikes and people, from pig-tailed kids to heavily tattooed bikies and Goths to grandparents – and of course, there are the ubiquitous acres of bouncing fluoro lycra.

There’s no such thing in this country as ‘mutton dressed as lamb’ (or pork chop as piglet, as the case may be!) – no matter what age you are, buy your clothes three sizes too small – that’s why they’re made of stretch fabric. Wear the highest shoes you can manage and BLING IS BETTER!!!

Christine, John’s wife, flew in from New York this morning – John picked her up in San Juan and joined us back in Guavate.

We were the only gringos in town and we had a really fun day with the locals – who laughed and joked with us (in Spanglish) and included us in their exuberant embrace.

We stood in the crowd at the edge of the dance floors, watching the locals merengue, bachata and salsa (the oldies cutting the rug with considerable more panache than the youngsters!), and cheered on the sixty-ish woman who could shake her booty with a force and flamboyance that could buff concrete, as she played to the audience, especially the appreciative gringa in the corner (yours truly).

Late in the afternoon, we drove back through the pine forest on the winding downhill road with bellies full of pig and Caribbean rhythms thrumming in our heads.

 ~~~ ><(((°>  ><(((°> ><(((°> ~~~